Fishball noodles are a dime a dozen. But ones with fish dumplings, or what is known in Teochew as “her giao” are much less common. Even rarer as ones with really good handmade her giao!
What makes these dumplings so special is that the “her” ie fish is not in the filling but in the wrapper! It is made by mincing and pounding fish meat with tapioca flour and rolling it out into thin sheets before it is cut into squares and using it to wrap a pork filling. To be able to make a good her giao takes years of experience and it is also very time consuming which explains why there is a dearth of stalls selling this item.
A good her giao should have a skin which is resilient with a nice chew and a savoury filling which is juicy and slightly tacky. The juxtapostion of such unique textures make them one of the most compelling dumplings you can ever put into your mouth!
When I heard that this new stall run by a young couple was serving handmade her giao, I wasted no time to see whether they are any good!